SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

Suspension - Basic set-up method

part numbers: TOOL10, TOOL11, HILO, HILO-01

Time to arrange all those agonised over, carefully selected and applied suspension components to give of their best.

This is one of those subjects viewed as a ‘black art’, largely because of lack of understanding and confusion. The confusion part is because folk encompass the whole suspension set-up deal with suspension arrangement and design, lack of understanding instilling terror at the thought of ‘fiddling’ with the suspension components. The latter also fuelled by the knowledge that expensive specialist measuring equipment is needed. Well, there is no black art – you can work the magic. More a case of a long day...

SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

Brakes - How They Work

This time we’re going to look at just how brakes do what they do, and ways to improve them. Without a doubt the most important point to get sorted at the outset is just what makes brakes do their thing - FRICTION. The sole purpose of the brake set-up on any vehicle .....

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Brakes - Silicone brake Fluid

To use or not to use - that is the question! BRAKES - Silicone brake fluid, to use or not to use - that is the question! Over more recent years I've had affair number of discussions on the use of silicone brake fluid as opposed to the more common type. I have to say some folk are vehemence in their belief that this stuff is 'the answer' to all kinds of brake maladies. Some time ago I contacted the two major brake specialists in this country (UK) to see what they had to say. Their reactions was as vehemence as those believers above. For what it's worth, I thought I'd spread the word according to the manufacturers - which happens to be similar to my limited experience with this 'liquid savior'. Some has heralded silicone-based brake fluid as being the last word in brake fluid, yet also brings a look of horror onto the faces of some. The classic car folk swear by it, particularly for vehicles that are not used much where brake seal failure can be experienced, and because it does not

Distributor - Electronic Ignition

Since the A-Series has such an efficient combustion chamber design, the standard points set-up is perfectly capable of providing sufficient sparks for effective combustion when new. And this is the problem. They require regular servicing to maintain maximum performance. This can be a chore, so is generally neglected. And it doesn't take long before deterioration seriously affects performance. Points bounce is also a problem on high-revving race motors.

Deterioration of the points set-up can be caused by several factors - wear and tear on the dizzy spindle bearings creating 'wobble', electrical erosion of the points, and wear of the points cam heal. All have the same effect - dwell angle alteration. This in turn reduces spark effectiveness. The consequences are a loss in power and economy, poor starting performance, and general poor running.

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Injection - Tuning Update 03.14.03

This program of development embarked upon by myself and colleague Mike Barratt (MBE, Lincoln 01522 545189) was instigated by Keith Dodd, owner of Mini Spares centre. His instructions were for us ....

Bill Sollis starts the 2005 race season with new colours.

The red lights went out after a short wait and the 2005 season was underway. I held position and went early on the attack,

It seems remarkable, but a winter break of over six months is never enough time to prepare a racing car! The truth is, at long last I've completely refurbished the hall, stairs and landing at home. That concludes a 7 and a half year ...

Cylinder head - Min Tec head range

I'm often asked about the range of cylinder heads I do for Mini Spares/Mini Mania, so here's the low-down…

Although the following range of heads accommodate specific fitments - like pre-1992 where by-pass hoses and heater take-offs on the clutch end of the head are used and post-1992 where neither of these exist, and on SPi (single point injection) heads where they don't usually have a threaded hole for the temperature sender - in reality it is easy to convert almost any of them to fit any other engine since holes are easily blocked off - or by-pass hoses not used, water pumps blanked off and drilled thermostats fitted (see articles on cooling/engine transplants). A list of which is what and what to do to each to convert is at the end of this article.

For more in-depth descriptions of the head specs, see article 'Cylinder head - About Min Tec Heads' - basically the valve sizes used have been decided on after extensive and in-depth flow test...

Engine - 1275, 95bhp sports/tourer test result

DIY enthusiasts often believe that building an engine to give excellent all-round road performance is beyond them. Mainly from comparisons made between what they have been able to achieve and what specialists say should be achievable from any particular type of engine build.

Generally scrambled further by the non-perfect match of parts and components used between aforementioned specialist and erstwhile DIY-er, and the ritual 'nose-tapping and knowing winks' display of those specialists. Something you can very nearly 'see' even when talking to such folk on the phone - or that inimitable 'ah, yes, well…' So some form of 'black art' is implied. Whilst there is most definitely a degree of 'feel' involved between the real specialist's results and those of just a good engineer - the bones of the deal is subject to no such thing and is certainly within the capability of the DIY enthusiast given the necessary information. And that has been the problem.

Engine - Small-bore engine, 12G940 head fitting

There is no specific large-bore (1275cc-based) head casting number that will fit the 998 engine any easier than any other.

They all have the same problems - generally requiring exhaust valve relief cut-outs machined into the block and re-alignment of the front water gallery transfer ports. However, I would avoid using heads with valves bigger than 35.7mm on the intake since these are too big for most 998 engines unless they are absolutely full-race spec where top end power at high rpm is all that is required.

First of all it is worth checking that you actually need to make the relief cut-outs since some heads have a big enough head face to exhaust valve face clearance to allow fitment without the cut-outs when the standard cam and rocker gear is retained.

If possible, measure the actual valve lift you are getting with the current fitted set-up.

Exhausts - RC40, Millennium and others tested

The recent rolling road re-test of the 1275 engine build I did saw an opportunity to do some exhaust systems testing.

I had noticed a few years back that the RC40 was being manufactured by a different process than the originals - giving rise to a change in the shape of the bends applied to the system. I had wondered if they would be causing a restriction at all - but hadn't had the opportunity to test it. The lack of expected power from the aforementioned engine lead me to investigate all possible angles from the tyre contact patch to the carb mouth. I found nothing that explained the 14 or so bhp I was 'missing'. After some application of the old grey cells I mentally narrowed cause down to one of two things - either the piston oil control rings were still causing excessive drag (75% of all internal friction of an engine is generated by the piston rings) or perhaps these new bends in the venerable RC40 were indeed causing a power loss.

Bill Sollis - Thruxton race report.

Our Brands Hatch successes were followed by a five week break and with holidays to take what better way to enjoy the first two wins of the season. Thruxton loomed up and the sense of expectation is never greater than when contemplating the mega fast Hampshire circuit. Preparations went beyond the usual full spanner check. We have acquired a cylinder leakage....

Injection Cars - Tuning up-date

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program?

It has been a long time between my first few words on basic injection car tuning and these - for that I apologise, but business has been unbelievably fraught this year.

I did promise regular and frequent up-dates, but the best laid plans, and all that… As I said, business has been more than brisk.

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program? Apart from a whole lot of investigation and repetitive research into what's available currently - not that much. It is all hinging on this forthcoming ECU from this particular company. Unfortunately the company concerned is not run by businessman or automotive engineers. They are electronics whiz kids who are trying to achieve the Holy Grail.

Lubrication - Oil, what it does and how

It's criminal. Folk spend fortunes putting together super-sonic motors, only to skimp on the oil they use. Why? Oil's oil right? Wrong. Even if it's a standard engine, it deserves TLC considering it's extremely hostile working environment.

Oil is literally the engine's life-blood. The opening few sentences are astonishingly true. Oil isn't there just to prevent all metal components within an engine fusing together in the first few seconds of running, creating a total melt down of Chernobyl proportions. It's an intricate blending of chemicals to protect the engine as a whole.

The most commonly uttered statement about engine wear is most wear occurs within the first 10 minutes from start up when cold. True if cheap chip fat oil is used.In performance and race engines, a considerable amount of wear is created by heat, load, speed, and pressure. Again, cheapy oil won't give protection here.

Pistons - Whys and wherefores

For many, trying to make an informed decision about which type of pistons they should use for their application is a very difficult thing to do. Mostly you have to rely on guidance from a very few sources such as engine builders  and Mini spares specialists, who are most likely to recommend whatever it is they use or sell.
And that is not necessarily a bad thing where those companies have strong reputations for good quality products. But even those specialists may not know all that much about the pistons they use or sell. Particularly since trying to get any really useful information out of the manufacturers concerned is practically impossible. Try contacting AE Hepolite technical. Getting hold of someone takes real perseverance. Having achieved that meagre goal, enquiring about piston specification gets those ‘lemon sucking’ sorts of noises – anybody would think you are asking for the Holy Grail! So I’m going to try and cut through the techno-babble to help you identify a

Suspension - Dampers, basic knowledge

The damper's job is very simple to explain - to keep the tyre in contact with the ground wherever and whenever possible...

Tyres - Getting to grips, basic information

Contemplating the discussions various discussions and lengthy correspondences on the subject of performance preparation, something filtered through to the surface. Tyres.

I've never covered the subject in any detail before, and it appeared that there's a distinct lack of even the most fundamental appreciation of what tyres are all about! In any competition discipline - or in fact any road-going situation as well - the tyres and control parameters used are so important to success, practically all the effort put into the chassis and suspension is to enable those four, relatively small (about the size of your average 'welly' foot-print) contact patches to give of their best. So something was desperately needed to address the situation. As I said, the ultimate goal is get those four small contact patches to give of their very best.